Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас
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348
Melody M. Bomgardner, “These New Textile Dyeing Methods Could Make Fashion More Sustainable,” Chemical & Engineering July 15, 2018, https://cen.acs.org/business/consumer-products/new-dyeing-methods-make/96/i29.
349
Emily Siner, “Why Tobacco Farmers in Robertson County Are Switching to Indigo,” Nashville Public Radio, August 22 2016, https://www.nashvillepublicradio.org/post/why-tobacco-farmers-robertson-county-are-switching-indigo#stream/0.
350
Feldman, “Stony Creek Colors Is Convincing Tobacco Farmers.”
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Feldman, “Stony Creek Colors Is Convincing Tobacco Farmers.”
352
Young Lee, “David Hieatt, Founder of Hiut Denim,” Heddels, November 9, 2013, www.heddels.com/2013/11/david-hieatt-founder-hiut-denim-exclusive-interview.
353
Букв. «дальше некуда» – верх совершенства (лат.). – Прим. пер.
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Paul Travi, “Big John – The History of the First Japanese Made Jeans,” Heddels, March 26, 2013, https://www.heddels.com/2013/03/big-john-the-history-of-the-first-japanese-made-jeans/.
355
Emma McClendon, Denim: Fashion’s Frontier (New York: Fashion Institute of Technology, 2016), 31.
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McClendon, Denim, 30.
357
“The History of the Osaka 5,” Heddels, March 17, 2014.
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McClendon, Denim, 31.
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Pixy Stix – американское лакомство в виде порошка кисло-сладкого вкуса, который высыпается в рот из бумажной трубочки. – Прим. пер.
360
Интервью, данное Тацуси Табути автору, Кодзима, Япония, 5 апреля 2018 г.
361
Интервью, данное Энрике Силлой автору, Валенсия, Испания, 19 декабря 2016 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Силлы происходят из этого интервью.
362
Malcom Moor, “The End of China’s Cheap Denim Dream,” Telegraph, February 26, 2011, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/china/8349425/The-end-of-Chinas-cheap-denim-dream.html.
363
Интервью, данное Полом Диллингером автору, Сан-Франциско, 13 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Диллингера происходят из этого интервью или телефонных звонков, если не указано иное.
364
“Chip Bergh: ‘There Are No Real Failures – Only Opportunities to Learn,” Thrive Global, January 26, 2017, https://medium.com/thrive-global/chip-bergh-there-are-no-real-failures-only-opportunities-to-learn-e8972dd96b73.
365
Adam Bryant, “Chip Bergh on Setting a High Bar and Holding People Accountable,” The New York Times, June 9, 2017, https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/09/business/chip-bergh-on-setting-a-high-bar-and-holding-people-accountable.html.
366
Russell Hotten, “How Jeans Giant Levi Strauss Got Its Mojo Back,” BBC News, September 25, 2017, https://www.bbc.com/news/business-40945709.
367
Tessa Love, “Levi’s CEO Chip Bergh Leads Company Rebound in Part by Winning Battle for Executive Talent,” San Francisco Business Times, November 11, 2016, https://www.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/news/2016/11/10/most-admired-chip-bergh-levi-strauss-rebound.html.
368
James Curleigh, speech, VAMFF Business Seminar, Melbourne, Australia, March 17, 2015.
369
Намек на расхожий образ успешных стартапов в Кремниевой долине, родившихся «в гараже» из креативности неимущих энтузиастов, сформированный мифологизированными историями Билла Гейтса и Стива Джобса. – Прим. пер.
370
Tim Higgins, “Distressed Denim: Levi’s Tries to Adapt to the Yoga Pants Era,” Bloomberg Businessweek, July 23, 2015.
371
Caroline Fairchild, “Does Levi Strauss Still Fit America?” Fortune, October 6, 2014, http://fortune.com/2014/09/18/levi-strauss-chip-bergh/.
372
Higgins, “Distressed Denim.”
373
Интервью, данное Бартом Сайтсом автору, Сан-Франциско, 13 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Сайтса происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.
374
Largetail, “Interview: Paul O’Neill of Levi’s Vintage Clothing,” Coolhunting, February 17, 2015, http://coolhunting.com/style/interview-paul-oneill-levis-vintage-clothing/.
375
Mark Lane, “Levi Strauss Replaces People with Lasers,” Apparel Insider, March 1, 2018, https://apparelinsider.com/levi-strauss-replaces-people-lasers/.
376
David Shuck, “Who Killed the Cone Mills White Oak Plant?” Heddels, February 1, 2018, https://www.heddels.com/2018/02/killed-cone-mills-white-oak-plant/.
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David Shuck, “Who Killed the Cone Mills White Oak Plant?”
378
Alex Williams, “No Room for America Left in Those Jeans,” The New York Times, November 10, 2017, https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/10/style/goodbye-american-selvage-jeans.html.
379
Sabrina Simms, “Sunday Focus: What Are the Next Steps for Vidalia Denim?” The Natchez Democrat, July 22, 2018, https://www.natchezdemocrat.com/2018/07/22/sunday-focus-what-are-the-next-steps-for-vidalia-denim/.
380
Интервью, данное Дэном Фейбусом автору по телефону 11 октября 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Фейбуса происходят из этого интервью.
381
“Vidalia Denim to Supply Sustainably-Made Denim Fabrics from State-of-Art Facility in Louisiana,” Market Insider, July 24, 2018, https://markets.businessinsider.com/news/stocks/vidalia-denim-to-supply-sustainably-made-denim-fabrics-from-state-of-art-facility-in-louisiana-1027394624.
382
Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, “Stella McCartney,” Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016, 19.
383
Интервью, данное Стеллой Маккартни автору, Лондон, 16 марта 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Маккартни происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.
384
Elizabeth Doupnik, “Ath-Leisure-Clad, Sustainably Aware Consumers Catapult Wool Market,” Women’s Wear Daily, March 27, 2017, https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/spotlight-woolmark-10851043/.
385
“Green Generation: Millennials Say Sustainability Is a Shopping Priority,” Nielsen Global Survey of Corporate Social Responsibility and Sustainability, May 11, 2015, https://www.nielsen.com/eu/en/insights/news/2015/green-generation-millennials-say-sustainability-is-a-shopping-priority.html.
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Интервью, данное Элизой Немцовой автору в скайпе 12 октября 2015 г.
387
David Owen, “Going Solo,” The New Yorker, September 17, 2001, https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2001/09/17/going-solo.
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Owen, “Going Solo,” 132.
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“She Hopes You Will Enjoy the Show,” Newsweek, April 27, 1997.
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Owen, 130.
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Owen, “Going Solo,” 130.
392
Suzy Menkes, “Glitter-Gulch from Givenchy as McQueen Goes Wild West: A Stellar Start for Chloe’s Light-Hearted Little Nothings,” International Herald Tribune, October 16, 1997, https://www.nytimes.com/1997/10/16/news/glittergulch-from-givenchy-as-mcqueen-goes-wild-west-a-stellar-start.html.
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Owen, “Going Solo,” 130.
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Keinan and Crener, “Stella McCartney,” 5.